What does "Chilia" mean?

The settlement's name derives from the medieval Greek κελλία (kellia), meaning "granaries" or "storehouses" — a reference to its commercial function in the Middle Ages, when the port housed large warehouses for grain and transit goods. The name's first documentary attestation appears around the 10th century, in Byzantine and Genoese chronicles.

Over time, the name took local forms in several languages:

RomanianChilia, Chilia Veche
UkrainianСтара Кілія (Stara Kiliya)
RussianСтарая Килия (Staraya Kiliya)
TurkishEskil-Kale or Eski-Kilya (Kale = fortress)
Latin / AncientAchillea or Ahilea

The suffix "Veche" (Old) came later, when the settlement's centre of gravity shifted to the northern bank of the Chilia arm, where Stephen the Great built a new fortress in 1479 — which became the nucleus of what is today Chilia Nouă (Kilia, Ukraine).

Lacustrine landscape in the delta — evoking ancient ports

First attestations and the Greek port of Achillea

Paleohydrographic studies show that approximately 2,500 years ago, the Black Sea coastline lay several leagues east of present-day Chilia Veche, as the Chilia arm and its secondary deltas had not yet formed. Greek merchants maintained a community here called Achillea (or Licostomo, depending on the period), an active port on the Black Sea (Pontic Euxine) route.

Archaeological research has revealed two burial mounds at a site called "Ciorticut", south-east of Chilia Veche. At "Selesce", excavations uncovered clay pipes, ceramics, coins and grain storage pits — evidence that the original settlement lay not where the village stands today, but further south, on the banks of the Chilia-Batag channel.

The Chilia arm appears in Byzantine and Genoese chronicles under the name Lykostoma (Greek: "wolf's mouth") or Licostomo, which also designated the fortress-port near present-day Periprava. It was the Delta's main navigation route, contested over millennia by Byzantines, Bulgarians, Russians, Tatars, Genoese, Dobrogeans, Wallachians, Moldavians and Ottomans.

The dispute over fortresses and crowns

Byzantine and Vlach-Bulgarian period (7th–14th centuries)

Chilia Veche was part of Thema Paristrion — the Byzantine province along the Danube — in the periods 680 and 915–1186. Between 1186 and 1394, the area came under the control of the Vlach-Bulgarian state. Intense commercial traffic and the natural conditions of the delta fostered the growth of prosperous settlements.

In the second half of the 14th century, Chilia became one of the Genoese commercial bases in the Black Sea region, with a colony led by a consul and its own defensive system at Licostomo. The area simultaneously fell under the influence of the Despotate of Dobruja, which recognised Ottoman suzerainty in 1388.

The battle for Chilia (15th century)

The fortress of Chilia was one of the most contested strategic points in south-eastern medieval Europe. Control of it meant control of the sea outlet through the Danube's largest arm:

1412–1448
Principality of Moldavia — under Alexander the Good
1448–1465
Kingdom of Hungary — seized by János Hunyadi
1465
Stephen the Great recaptures Chilia for Moldavia. In 1479 he builds the fortress that bears his name — its ruins stand to this day in front of the village.
1484
The Ottoman Empire seizes Chilia definitively. The settlement is renamed Eskil-Kale and remains under Turkish rule for over three centuries.

The Two Chilias: how they were separated

Until the Ottoman era, "Chilia" designated a single urban entity: the fortress-port on the right bank of the arm (today Chilia Veche, Romania) and the commercial zone on the opposite bank. When Stephen the Great lost Chilia in 1484, he built a new fortress on the left bank — which became the nucleus of the city known today as Chilia Nouă (now Kilia, Ukraine).

Period Chilia Veche (right bank — Romania) Chilia Nouă (left bank — Ukraine)
1484–1812Ottoman EmpireOttoman Empire
1812–1856Ottoman EmpireRussian Empire
1856–1878Ottoman Empire (restored)Principality of Moldavia / Romania
1878–1918RomaniaRussian Empire
1918–1940RomaniaRomania (Great Union)
1940–1944RomaniaUSSR
1944–1991RomaniaUkrainian SSR / USSR
1991–presentRomaniaIndependent Ukraine

1918 was the only moment in modern history when both Chilias belonged to the same state. 1940: The Soviet ultimatum separates the two banks once more. 1948: A controversial and unratified Soviet-Romanian protocol cedes to the USSR several islands on the Chilia arm — Daleru Mare, Daleru Mic, Tătaru Mic, Maican and Insula Limba — blocking Romanian vessels from free access to the sea. 2009: The International Court of Justice at The Hague rules that the islands remain Ukrainian, awarding Romania 9,700 km² of the Black Sea continental shelf in return.

The Chilia arm — natural border between Romania and Ukraine
The Chilia arm separates Romania from Ukraine along nearly 120 kilometres. In Herodotus's time, the arm did not exist — the Black Sea was 40 km closer.

The living border: Chilia facing Ukraine

Today Chilia Veche and Kilia (Chilia Nouă) face each other from opposite banks of the Chilia arm. The distance between them is a few hundred metres. There is a river crossing between them. Before Russia's 2022 invasion, the factory chimneys of Kilia were visible to the naked eye from Chilia Veche.

"Locals from Chilia Veche say they have heard explosions on the other bank and have watched drones crossing over the water."

Local sources, 2022–2024

Since the outbreak of war, Kilia has become one of the Ukrainian cities subject to rocket and drone attacks. Fragments of Russian drones have fallen on Romanian territory, including in villages along the road to Chilia. This reality has suddenly transformed this forgotten edge of Europe into the NATO border that had to be defended.

The Chilia Veche Prison: the camp at the end of the world

Chilia Veche Prison (Formation 0600) was established on 1 January 1956 as the coordinating centre of the entire concentration camp system in the Danube Delta, with the Tătaru colony under its authority. Prisoners — both political and criminal — lived in mud-brick and reed barracks and were given impossible work quotas: harvesting reeds, building embankments, land reclamation.

Inseparably linked to the memory of this place is Nicolae Moromete, nicknamed "Maromet — the beast with a human face", commandant from summer 1956. Locals still speak of him in whispers. He was never tried. Between October 1958 and January 1959, the death toll was so high it shocked even the regime's own investigating officers.

The Periprava labour colony, initially a section of Chilia Veche Prison, operated as the most isolated point of the Romanian gulag. Colonel Ion Ficior, convicted only in 2013, applied a regime designed for the "physical liquidation of political prisoners". Annual archaeological campaigns continue to recover remains from mass graves.

"Oh, at Tătaru, at Chilia, how painful it is,
Lungu beats with a rope, how painful it is,
The guard shouts: 'Hit him, thief, hit him,
Ten wagons have arrived, hit him, thief, hit him!'"

"La Chilia-n port" (At Chilia's port) — composed in 1951 by Traian Spiru (Puiu Spiru), himself a prisoner. Brought to public consciousness by actors Ștefan Iordache and Gheorghe Dinică in the film "The Most Beloved of Earthlings", based on Marin Preda's novel.

The prison today: Operates as a section of Tulcea Prison. On the Tătaru ridge, a minimum-security prison without bars has been built with Norwegian funding (€580,320), inspired by Norway's Bastøy prison model — inmates build eco-houses and prepare fish for lunch.
Flat, austere Delta landscape — recalling the isolation of the camps

Industrialisation: grandiose visions for the Delta

The communist regime saw the Danube Delta not as an ecosystem to be protected but as a territory to be exploited. Dozens of lakes were drained, islands transformed into agricultural polders, and tens of thousands of hectares removed from the natural cycle.

27,032
hectares — Pardina polder
5,480
hectares — Sireasa polder
70+
lakes drained in the Sireasa area
1983
Ceaușescu's "integral development" programme

At Chilia Veche, the plans included: a slaughterhouse (85% complete at the Revolution), a mechanical workshop, 13 crop farms and three ram-breeding complexes. Seventy-eight engineers passed through the area. None of it exists today.

Babina and Cernovca: destruction and rebirth

The islands of Babina (2,200 ha) and Cernovca (1,580 ha), embanked during communist decades, were abandoned after 1989. In 1993, the Danube Delta Research Institute, ARBDD and WWF launched a pilot rewilding project: the embankments were breached and the islands reconnected to the Danube. Within a few years, the area had returned to fish spawning habitat and waterbird feeding ground — a European-cited success story of ecological restoration.

Road through the Danube Delta — flat plain and vegetation

DJ 222N: the torment road to the end of the world

The road connecting Tulcea to Chilia Veche runs approximately 70–80 kilometres, following for the most part the embankment built during the communist era alongside the Tătaru arm. Built under Ceaușescu to haul harvests from the polders, it is a gravel and dirt road — unpaved and impassable even for four-wheel-drive vehicles in heavy rain.

The €40 million scandal: In 2017, the road was selected for €40M in EU funding through the ITI Danube Delta mechanism. Former PSD senator Traian Rece, holding vast land concessions in the Delta through the firm Agrodelta Sireasa SA, challenged all land registry entries for DJ 222N in court in 2018, claiming the embankment was his property. The litigation blocked the EU funding, which expired. Meanwhile, the Tulcea County Council spent nearly €10M over 10 years on "routine repairs" with minimal results.

Geopolitical urgency (2022–present): Russia's invasion of Ukraine added a military dimension to the road problem. DJ 222N is the only road for evacuating the population and military intervention along the NATO border on the Chilia arm. A €5M direct contract in 2022 brought emergency repairs — one year later, the potholes were back.

The very road built by Ceaușescu to exploit the Delta became, after 1989, the subject of a private property dispute blocking access to a community of over 1,700 people and to the NATO border.

Canals and waterways: the hydrological network

The Chilia Veche commune area is one of the most hydrologically complex in the entire Delta. The main waterways in the area:

  • Tătaru Arm (formerly "Tatomir") — the most important lateral arm in the area, forming the de-facto border with Ukraine along a significant stretch. Known for spectacular catches of wels catfish, carp, pike and pikeperch.
  • Gotca Canal — silted up, sectioned, with no direct connection to the Chilia arm. Now crossed by earthen embankments.
  • Mila 36 Canal and Stipoc Canal — secondary arteries crossed by bridges on DJ 222N.
  • Pardina Canal — partially silted, without an outlet westward into the Chilia arm.

The network of channels, lakes and marshes offers exceptional fishing conditions. The Roșca-Buhaiova-Hrecișca Reserve (15,400 ha) surrounding Lake Matița hosts the largest pelican colony in Europe. Official tourist route No. 9 (Chilia Veche – Babina Arm – Lake Merhei – Lake Matița – Lake Babina) is one of the most spectacular in the Delta.

Demographics and life today

Chilia Veche is the most populated rural settlement in the Danube Delta and the largest commune in the Delta by administrative area (53,358 ha), encompassing Chilia Veche (the seat), Câșlița, Ostrovu Tătaru and Tatanir. Yet the demographic trend is one of uninterrupted decline:

2,870
residents in 1992
2,132
residents in 2011
1,728
residents in 2021
89.99%
Romanian (2021)

People leave for the cities; winters are particularly harsh: cold, isolation, prices double those of urban areas (due to transport costs), and no family doctor in the commune. Fishing tourism and river boat trips are the main economic activity. The local cuisine is noteworthy for storceag (a fish soup typical of the Lipovan community), fish borscht, brine-cured fish and smoked shad.

Ethnic composition (2021): Romanian 89.99% · Russian-Lipovan 1.91% · Ukrainian 1.22% · other ethnicities 6.77%.

Notable people

Timur-Alexandru Ciauș

Mayor since 2020

The community's voice in disputes over the road and access to services. Of Ukrainian-Romanian descent, representative of the location's historical diversity.

Georgeta Ciupitu

Mayor 2004 and 2008 (PNL)

The only woman to have led this commune in the modern era.

Nicolae Moromete "Maromet"

Prison commandant, 1956

Not a hero, but precisely the opposite. A symbol of communist repression. He was never tried or punished for his atrocities. Locals still speak of him in whispers.

Traian Spiru (Puiu Spiru)

Composer, 1951

Author of "La Chilia-n port", composed in prison. Originally from Luncavița — his memory is inseparable from Chilia's port.

I.D. Sârbu (Dezideriu Sârbu)

Writer, 1919–1989

Passed through the Periprava camp. His works, largely published posthumously, are among the most valuable testimonies of the Romanian gulag.

Ștefan Iordache & Gheorghe Dinică

Actors

Brought the camp song to public consciousness through their performance in the film "The Most Beloved of Earthlings", based on Marin Preda's novel.

A NATO border of stone and water

Chilia Veche is, by geographical position, the last Romanian settlement and the easternmost point of NATO's land border with Ukraine in the Danubian zone. The Chilia arm, which separates it from Ukrainian Kilia, is also the NATO–non-NATO frontier line.

"The people of Chilia Veche hear explosions at night, watch drones pass overhead, and know that their only road to the world outside the delta is a gravel track that takes two or three hours in good weather, four or more after rain."

Current situation, 2024

The history of Chilia Veche is the history of a place always at the margins of empires — Genoese, Ottoman, Russian, Soviet — and always disputed. Today, that margin is the front line of democratic Europe. The road that never gets paved, the border visible to the naked eye, the explosions from across the water — all are, in the end, variations on the same theme: a place at the end of the world, on the shore of history.

Bibliography and sources:
  • Wikipedia RO: Comuna Chilia Veche, Tulcea; Brațul Chilia; Chilia Nouă
  • Tulcea Prison / ANP: History of Chilia Veche Prison
  • Radio Free Europe Romania: The NATO border, a dirt road (2023)
  • Info Sud-Est / G4Media: The Tulcea–Chilia Veche road (2022–2023)
  • WWF Romania: Babina and Cernovca
  • IICCMER: Penal records — Periprava
  • Adevărul: Who was Maromet; The Tătaru ridge
Article compiled in February 2026, based on publicly available sources at the time of writing.